New Mexico might be the most underrated state I've ever been to. Part of me wants to tell everyone about it because it seems to go mostly unrecognized -- more people were surprised to hear that we were visiting there than people who have been, or for that matter, even know anyone who's been. "Oh really? What's in New Mexico? Are you visiting family or something?" Yeah yeah I know my husband looks some kind of native but no, he's from Peru. But another part wants to help keep it secret so it doesn't get overrun with influencers or corporations. Thankfully my reach is minimal at best, so I guess the secret is out for the one or two people that might read this blog (hi mom).
My experience of New Mexico was a mixture of emotional conflict and enjoyment. New Mexico has some of this lands most ancient history, some of it even dating back over 10,000 years. There's a ton of history and ruins/artifacts between 1,000-500 years ago that's still very intact, and of course lots of well-documented history from the 1500's and on. Overall it seems like one of the least colonized states, with some areas truly looking like another country. I won't even try to summarize the history or get into the complexity of the grief, but I'll say there was a huge emotional impact we felt when visiting pueblos, meeting natives and learning in the museums, all of which we found profound and important to understand as Americans. I believe the presence of deep history here is one of the main foundations for New Mexico's rich culture today that you don't see in many commercialized "vanilla wafer" towns as my best friend says.
We spent most of our time in Santa Fe, making a day trip up to Taos, a day trip to Bandelier National Monument, a one-night stay passing through Albuquerque, and a brief visit to White Sands National Park before going back up to Santa Fe. The land was beautiful and diverse, even including lava fields with funky plants growing out of them. I'd recommend the High Road to Taos, stopping at Santuario de Chimayo on the way and go into the little trading post and pick up some fresh chiles grown locally in the valley. Incredible smell. Santa Fe was our favorite, and honestly now it's one of our favorites in the US as a whole. We found it to be very safe, warm, relaxed, welcoming, and with a strong sense of community. In Santa Fe (old town) in particular, there was no corporate influence. Everything was local and/or historic -- art, cuisine, products, architecture, businesses.
There was one restaurant in particular we returned to many times and it started to feel like a comfortable routine. It was always the right amount of busy -- never empty but never slammed. No fancy frills that drew in tourists, with simple but amazing food, some misspelled words on the menu, and warm-spirited people telling us to sit wherever we want. The space was not overdone, but it was cozy and endearing with a couple original paintings for sale, not quite at the level of the prestigious galleries around, but they were affordable. One wall had a silly painted tree on it that someone tried to undo by painting over, but they used the wrong wall color, but it's ok and good enough, and that's beautiful. Each time we walked in, one of the waiters (an older man) would embrace and hug Zamie, and they spoke Spanish together. I don't know what they said and I didn't ask. But I could feel those hugs from across the table. Along with a lightness in Zam's posture and expression afterwards. I even got a few hugs myself as the honored esposa, but they were more careful than the heavy man hugs and neck-holding that convinced me these two were family. One of Zamie's superpowers is his natural ability to seamlessly create connection with locals wherever we go. Most prominently in latin environments as they're so warm and community-driven. It's not even an effort, it just happens. It was sad to leave for the last time.
Our airbnb was our favorite place we stayed. It was a casita off the main house from a nice couple. It was up in the hills down a gravel road. There were other houses around but the casita was really serene and private. It had a sweet little garden right outside with incredible-smelling sage and a bird feeder we watched every morning. Nearby there was a little worn path down an unkempt hill that led to a bigger dirt path along the Santa Fe River. It was tiny and looked more like a creek and it was lovely. This river trail took us to Canyon Road where most of the galleries were, and a nice breakfast spot where I always ordered the Spicy Santa Fe Mocha. Along the way we came across lots of well-behaved, off-leash dogs walking far behind or ahead of their owners, and cottonwood fluff snowing all around us. One day we came home from the river trail and dozens of goats had been dropped off into a field for the day to mow/eat it. Neighbors loved it because it was "better than the sound of a lawn mower".
Overall in Santa Fe, didn't see many kids. Not even many people our age. Mostly older retired-age folks. But not like country club older folks, more like older artsy ex-hippies, and pretty diverse. Fancy desert-type hats and loose clothing, maybe a hiking stick. The type that will climb the ladders at Bandelier despite being over 75 years old.
Across our trip we met so many incredibly kind Native American and latin people everywhere we went. They worked in many of the places we visited: the restaurants, museums, parks, shops, galleries, selling their crafts in plazas, and of course living and working in the pueblo. I feel grateful to have met them.
There's a lot more I could say about New Mexico but this will do for now. Most of my pictures are of scenery, but most of the memories are from the interactions that I would never dare to taint with a photo. We keep those with us.
Highlights: New Mexico History Museum, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, Camino Pequeño (private road) along Santa Fe River, Canyon Road galleries, Rainbow Man Historic Photography, Santa Fe Trails Fine Art, Ten Thousand Waves Spa (heavenly shiatsu massage by Valli), Ojo Caliente Mineral Hot Springs, Santuario de Chimayo, High Road to Taos, Taos Pueblo, Bandelier National Monument, a few Breaking Bad filming locations of Albuquerque, Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, Rio Grande Nature Center State Park, Petroglyph National Monument, White Sands National Park.
Our Food Spots: Palacio Restaurant, The Shed Restaurant, The Pink Adobe, The Teahouse (all Santa Fe), and High Noon Restaurant (Old Town Albuquerque).
Where we stayed (and would stay again): Santa Fe Airbnb, Casas de Sueños - Ivy Cottage (Albuquerque), Inn on the Alameda (Santa Fe).
Playlist I made for the trip: Route 66 - inspired by Breaking Bad and the 70s, good for the open road.
